The growth of the “fast fashion” industry has many negative impacts, and it is starting to look like efforts to resolve one problem could just cause others to snowball. It seems like donating unwanted clothing to charities might wash the shopper clean of the guilt of overconsumption, yet do those shoppers know that many charities are bundling up clothes that sit on the racks, and selling them to market vendors overseas? This might not seem so bad, but not only does it conceal and promote Western overconsumption - it inhibits the economies of those overseas markets. Some sceptics of the fast fashion industry say some simple solutions are to buy fewer and better quality products, hold clothing swaps, or to more deeply investigate charities before donating used clothing. It might help fast fashion fans to be aware of the small factors that add up to ultimate overconsumption; and the seemingly irrevocable effects being caused around the world by this industry.
$43.6 billion Canadian dollars are spent on clothing and footwear every year. The average Canadian buys 70 new pieces of clothing per year, which amasses to 12 million tons of textile waste winding up in North American landfills every year. Some companies have started initiatives to promote the recycling of donated clothes in exchange for discounts on new products in their stores. The truth, according to author Elizabeth Cline is that only 1% of these textiles are being recycled into new clothing. Cline says the recycling of most clothing is unrealistic due to the poor quality of fibres being used to make the clothing in the first place, and the degradation that takes place during the recycling process.
The majority of used clothing donations are sorted into bails, and sold to market vendors in developing areas such as Africa, South America, and China. In 2017 Canada’s trade value of used clothing equated to $64.2 m (USD), with Kenya as the top buyer at $16.03 m (USD). Firstly, the unknown quality of the clothing being bought by overseas vendors means that much of what is bought is wasted once it has already been purchased. Also, there are deep economic impacts of these “charitable” efforts. At its’ peak the Kenyan textile industry employed more than 200,000 people, after economic liberalisation it now employs less than 20,000 workers and predicts further losses.
The forced liberalisation of African leaders - due to pressure from banks and governments in the West - caused a loss of certain barriers to trade like import taxes that were protecting African factories. Opening the doors to trade flooded the already fragile market with cheap imports, and people working in clothing factories lost their jobs. The general attitude in Africa towards imported used clothing could be inferred from its’ nicknames like mitumba (meaning ‘old’) in Kenya, kafa ulaya (‘the clothes of the dead whites’) in Nigeria, or roupa da calamidade (‘clothing of the calamity’) in Mozambique.
The dilemma of what to do with unwanted clothing is a tricky one. Should it sit in a landfill? Donating to a local charity seems like an ideal solution, but even the Salvation Army will sell bundles of clothing outside of Canada. The organization equates each bale to a profit of $200 that they can use to feed the hungry in Canada or put towards their other programs. Taking care of the unfortunate people in our own country is important, but at what cost to the people who are receiving bundles of items that have little but negative impacts on their own economies? So what is the answer? First, if you’re going to give your clothes to charity, make sure you know what their end game is - just because you’re not throwing it into a landfill or selling it to an overseas vendor, doesn’t mean it won’t end up there. When it comes to getting rid of unwanted clothing, make use of it in new ways like turning an old shirt or skirt into dishcloths or tote bags. Ultimately, buy less, and buy better.
$43.6 billion Canadian dollars are spent on clothing and footwear every year. The average Canadian buys 70 new pieces of clothing per year, which amasses to 12 million tons of textile waste winding up in North American landfills every year. Some companies have started initiatives to promote the recycling of donated clothes in exchange for discounts on new products in their stores. The truth, according to author Elizabeth Cline is that only 1% of these textiles are being recycled into new clothing. Cline says the recycling of most clothing is unrealistic due to the poor quality of fibres being used to make the clothing in the first place, and the degradation that takes place during the recycling process.
The majority of used clothing donations are sorted into bails, and sold to market vendors in developing areas such as Africa, South America, and China. In 2017 Canada’s trade value of used clothing equated to $64.2 m (USD), with Kenya as the top buyer at $16.03 m (USD). Firstly, the unknown quality of the clothing being bought by overseas vendors means that much of what is bought is wasted once it has already been purchased. Also, there are deep economic impacts of these “charitable” efforts. At its’ peak the Kenyan textile industry employed more than 200,000 people, after economic liberalisation it now employs less than 20,000 workers and predicts further losses.
The forced liberalisation of African leaders - due to pressure from banks and governments in the West - caused a loss of certain barriers to trade like import taxes that were protecting African factories. Opening the doors to trade flooded the already fragile market with cheap imports, and people working in clothing factories lost their jobs. The general attitude in Africa towards imported used clothing could be inferred from its’ nicknames like mitumba (meaning ‘old’) in Kenya, kafa ulaya (‘the clothes of the dead whites’) in Nigeria, or roupa da calamidade (‘clothing of the calamity’) in Mozambique.
The dilemma of what to do with unwanted clothing is a tricky one. Should it sit in a landfill? Donating to a local charity seems like an ideal solution, but even the Salvation Army will sell bundles of clothing outside of Canada. The organization equates each bale to a profit of $200 that they can use to feed the hungry in Canada or put towards their other programs. Taking care of the unfortunate people in our own country is important, but at what cost to the people who are receiving bundles of items that have little but negative impacts on their own economies? So what is the answer? First, if you’re going to give your clothes to charity, make sure you know what their end game is - just because you’re not throwing it into a landfill or selling it to an overseas vendor, doesn’t mean it won’t end up there. When it comes to getting rid of unwanted clothing, make use of it in new ways like turning an old shirt or skirt into dishcloths or tote bags. Ultimately, buy less, and buy better.
Love the proposition at the end! Effective and convincing! :)
ReplyDeleteI am blown away that only 1% of textiles are being recycled. Which links to a great call to action by creating rags or dish-clothes instead of just throwing them out the door. Great piece and very compelling. Especially in this new "thrift age" we are all living in.
ReplyDeleteThis is a great topic for discussion, seeing as textile waste is a use issue that often get over looked. I'd also recommend donating your clothes to local thrift stores (not the Salvation army). Buying thrift store clothing is also a good way to reduce textile waste!
ReplyDeleteThis is a great discussion! I usually donate clothes I don't want or need anymore to local thrift stores, but now I'm definitely going to do research on the place I'm donating to. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteImportant discussion! I get overwhelmed with the thought that we are stuck between influencers that want us to purchase and are at war against global warming at the same time. It's time that we, the consumers, as well as the clothing industry take responsibility. The documentary "the true cost" is an eyeopener and I highly suggest to watch it!
ReplyDelete